PickensPlan

What can we do to help the poor go solar?

Hi, ya'll. My thoughts about Mr. Pickens' idea are "Wow, someone who cares and actually has a plan". The problem I see is that for the plan to work the money hungry rich would have to bail the country out of the h*** that the money hungry rich put us into. I actually have two(2) ideas on how to help finance these ideas if we can just get the government to do their part. Every time I look at a roof top (and lately with the recent hail damage in my area I've looked at a lot of roofs) I see wasted energy loss. There can be a great amount of energy produced if more roof tops included solar systems, however the people who own these homes can't afford the cost of adding these systems. My first idea (and probably the most unpopular) would be to have congress propose that anyone who makes a certain amount each year (say 100K) would have to donate 1% of their yearly income to provide solar power pannels to those who make less than the proposed amount. Starting with the poorest, working the way up to the middle class, and then finally the rich. Those who already have installed solar systems would get some kind of compensation when their turn came up. Those whose houses would not support a solar system would recieve a wind system or they could choose to opt out and continue with the current power system. These systems would probably not be sufficent to completely get off the grid but would help produce power nationally and help lower energy bills (which helps the economy by giving people more money to spend). The other idea is to have congress propose a 1% federal sales tax which would be put into a fund to provide the systems mentioned above. The advantage to this idea would be the funds are provided by everyone including ,the poor as well as the rich, and immigrants(legal and illegal both). I understand that not everyone would like these ideas and that these ideas could actually hurt some folks, but something has to be done and I fear that we may already be to late. I'd like to hear ideas from others, but please keep the negative criticism to a minimum because it gets us nowhere.

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Permalink Reply by Piers Sutton on July 24, 2008 at 10:56pm
Not bad, and I don't mean to sound like a shill because I'm merely a shareholder (3 years now), but look at XsunX's technology and there are other companies in the sector. What they're doing will be much cheaper, and perhaps more importantly you wont need to continually clean the stuff on the rooftops since generally a building's window's are cleaned regularly.

As to the heart of your plan....the poorest people generally live in apartments so who the rich would really be donating to are other rich people who own the apartment building in many cases. Secondly, and this is where i'd have a problem, depending on where you live 100k isn't rich at all. I was making 60k and couldn't afford a house for years in the SF bay area. Had I magically hit the 100k barrier believe me I would want it all to get a house (that i'd still barely be able to afford lol). I'd say 150k and 200k (or more) for special geographies such as SF / NY etc. I can't tell you how sick I get after a 60 hour week when I see some shmucks on TV get a free house renovation. Poor them. Boo hoo.

But...what we're really talking about here if we want to cut the crap is the government using our taxes more wisely right?
Permalink Reply by Dale Nelson on July 25, 2008 at 12:48am
For the poor, one available technology is to erect a solar tent around an existing house. Basically a clear vinyl tent is set up around a house with barrels of liquid in black containers on the south facing parts. This warms the outside air for the house and reduces the amount of heat needed in the winter.

Insulating dwellings is a small investment that pays back quickly.
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on August 8, 2008 at 10:05pm
What can we do to help the poor go Solar? Simply quit paying for either gas, electrical, propane to heat your home. Spend a $100 and forget about paying the gasman to heat your house or business? I have done it for 25 years and the “First” solar system cost less then $50 and has heated my building, size-- 95’x55’x27’ high for less then a $1.00 per day.
Using your words, "the great thing about owing your own solar panels or wind farm is the ability to sell your excess production to the GRID". How long does it take to build or buy these systems, as a Wind farms or solar panels, and then "sell" to some faceless business. Can you afford to spend $5000 or $50,000 to create these panels/wind farms and "Then find no buyer for your investment? Now you join the crowd that" invested" all their money and expect somebody whom "Might Buy" your product.
Wake up, protect your self and spend $100 to use passive solar to heat and cool your home. Spend 20 hours and $200 on equipment and then "Help" your friends and others to give to them your learned and applied knowledge. My very first passive solar system cost $35 for the remote temp sensor that activated a fan motor that "Sucked" warm air from my attic. IT has functioned for 25 years and heated a 95' by 55' and 27 feet tall building for the last 25 years with a "ADDED COST" of $1.15 per day for "back up" gas furnace fuel. So instead of paying $200 per month to heat this building and spending $60,000, I spent $10,350 and saved $49,650.
I didn't have to "hope" somebody" wanted to buy my "Power" and hope they pay me for my investment to create this "wind Farm" that blew over and broke in the storm last month? Check Anachronism on “Pickens Plan” to view five (5) projects to see actual buildings and working for 25 years. Anachronism, "Do something!" (August 8, 2008) Add to Go to Anachronism- Look at Photo--img_002-2 as this shows the method used for 25 years to HEAT the building shown in PARKING-Party Wall copy_
You need to do something and this is the simple way to do "pull all the heat from your attic and completely" HEAT" your home! This building is the size of more then 8-2400 sg ft homes and it has worked for 25 YEARS. DO SOMETHING !
Permalink Reply by kathleen huff on August 11, 2008 at 9:07pm
Anachronism, can you email me how to do this myself?...where do i locate the equipement?...i'd love to do this myself...i'd love to give oil companies and electric companies the finger as well...lol...
my email is wildkat32@hotmail.com
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on August 26, 2008 at 1:41pm
Hi Kathleen Huff 8/26/11:32
Here’s the Information: "HOW TO & EQUIPMENT LIST TO INSTALL"
1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.

3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home.
17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct air flow to floor, you decide)
18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!

Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends to allow air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function
(NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled e
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on August 26, 2008 at 2:33pm
(Continued) every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

“Decisions? Decisions?”
Lets ask a, “simple question” and “YOU” fill in the math.
Herein is a means to HEAT your home for free and forever. I have created and used this “EXACT” method to heat my first project in 1984 using this method. The building size was 95’ long x 55’ wide and 27’ tall. The cubic feet of space 141,075 AND the same as 8 homes of approximately 2,000 sq. feet.

THE COST TO PASSIVELY SOLAR HEAT MY STORAGE
BUILDING WAS $1.00 PER DAY, FOR THE LAST 25 YEARS.

The step-by-step instructions are as follows:

A. You live in a typical 1500 sq. ft. home and your heating bill per month to maintain a comfortable level of “72 degree’s” costs you $250 (Kelso Wash) August 26, 2008, per month?
B. You COULD spend $3000 per year. (The cost shown of $250 per month is from an actual 1000 sq. ft house using “electrical Baseboard heater’s? (Smaller then typical)
C. NOW let’s leap ten years forward and you have spent $30,000 to heat your home?
D. Now, today you spend $125 and install an individual Attic Solar Heating system, which “COULD” save you $100 a month. In ten years time, you might save $12,000 or decide to simply sit in your chair and know that your “Heating Bills will never increase” AND spend your $30,000 and simply continue heating your home?

This simple effort doesn’t require you to install “Solar Panels” and figure out how to “Borrow” enough money to purchase products, install on your roof, “tap into your Electrical System” and purchase the specific “Electrical Connections required by State Rules”. State laws also require a certified Electrical Contractor to “TAP” into your system and they usually charge $150 per hour. (How Many?)

NOW you have created a system to produce electrical power to operate “SOME” equipment, system, lights, and baseboard panel or hope you can sell any “Excess” power to your local UTILITY Company?

Now you have a group of simple decisions?
1. Will my roof system be damaged and leak water into my house?
2. What happens when something damages your “Solar Electrical” system and it quits?
3. When the sun doesn’t shine on your “Panel’s”, will it heat your house or operate some electrical item?
4. Does it operate at night and produce power OR HEAT?
5. Will the voltage be stable and meet “ALL STATE” elec. Rules & Regulation’s?
I know these problems “will never occur” and your system will operate for the next “Ten years and you will recover your investment of an indeterminate amount” (BUT did you save any money?}
Now your “Panel System” might have to be replaced, “as it is possible” that it could fail to function, COULD be damaged with “SOME” object simply hitting the glass panels or some other problem?
Who buy’s “Used” solar panel systems? Now the operational costs of your “Passive Solar System” has required no repairs, or changes and it simply “HELP’S” to heat your home?
Look at the 25-year track record of our (4) Passive Solar heating projects and the 20-year operations of our “dual unit” creating “Passive Solar Cooling & Heating “ with NO Maintenance Required in any of these systems.
UPDATE-Supplies from LOWES-Dated 08/19/08 to “Purchase” enough supplies to install a stand alone “Passive Solar Heating Unit” to pull heated attic air into your residence Living space!
(Decide which rooms you want to add your solar heat into!) You can install more then one duct and motor from the same attic space. You will also need to cover, from the inside, the current attic vent used to “ALLOW” the attic heat to simply leave the attic space. Using an “active” venting system your “Usually” allowed to cover those
“HOT ATTIC EXHAUST OPENING’S”

USE THIS SET-UP WHEN YOU HAVE A BASEBOARD ELECTRICAL HEATING SYSTEM!
Quantity ITEM SKU PRICE
1 8” Duct Fan Motor #185010 29.93
1 8” Black Ducting (flex) #36441 38.69

(You will have 12’ of ducting left over to assist your children, friends or the older couple next door who can’t afford to pay $50 a month to try and keep warm?? HELP OTHERS? It’s noble to share?
(A) Separate Electrical Control to turn on using temperature sensor in peak of attic area. Approx. 60.00
(Ranco, ETC Commercial Temperature Controls, Part # ETC-111000
Available from CED electrical supply house OR from Honey Run Apiaries for a model to replace my original “Goldline 30” used in 1984 project”)(Quote from “Honey Run” of $59.99, Dated-2008)
(B) Electrical connections to 8” duct motor (120 V single phases) you may be allowed to connect, BUT don’t assume you can!
(C) Finish trim inside your room ceiling to give finished look.
No labor costs to install in the above figures,
Need cloth or metal strapping to hold ducting in place in the attic
You now have the parts to create a stand-alone unit for Passive solar HEATING.
Approximate costs ------- $123.62 + tax and labor.

CAN YOU AFFORD TO SPEND $123.62 AND POTENTIONALY SAVE $12,000?

USE THIS SYSTEM CONFIGRATION IF YOU HAVE A DOWNDRAFT FURANCE SYSTEM AND DUCT WORK IN YOUR HOUSE
IF you have a “Downdraft” furnace system you only need part #36441 (the insulated Ducting) and Separate Electrical Control to operate the sensor to turn on the “fan motor of your current downdraft hot air system” and it will distribute the “FREE” solar HEAT
Throughout, “YOUR” complete HOME
Your “DOWNDRAFT” system could cost $38.69 for ducting and $60 for sensor unit or a total of $98.69 PLUS your labor and misc. ducting supports and or sealing duct tape for any joints.

REMEMBER I have heated a building the size of “11” separate homes of 1600 sq. feet for 25 years for less then a” $1.00 per day”.
(Check Photo “IMG_0002_2 with comments under Photo)
INTERNET CONNECTION: http://push.pickensplan.com/photo/photo/show?id=2187034%3aphoto%3a5...

“YOU DECIDE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU AND DO IT “NOW”

I know it’s hard to make decisions and then do something? So simply forget the information discussed above and continue as before?

“MAKE A DECISION AND DO SOMETHING!!!!

http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism
Permalink Reply by RWC1972 on August 9, 2008 at 1:43am
Pay for it yourself?

Seriously what kind of question is that?
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on July 16, 2009 at 2:36pm
Hi WILLIAM AND SARAH QUICK-7/16/09: Consider this idea to create solar heat in your residence. I have applied this for 25 years and it's painless to keep my money in my pocket heating my business for "NEXT TO NOTHING" for 25 years. Five projects shown on Anachronism site, under pictures. SIMPLY see that it is real and the remote switch shown has operated for 25 years and the average gas cost to heat any of the "5" projects "IN THE DEAD OF WINTER" since 1985 was $2.00 per day for gas. The heating bill for each of five projects NEVER went above $100 for 365 days of constant "COMFORT".

You can also "COOL" your house as shown and explained on our site. The vancouver project is kept at a constant 68 to 70 degree during the summer and winter kept at 72 degrees and the actual cost for the natural gas cost in 1989 was $100 for 365 days to heat the building shown. I owned and operated all five projects and kept the actual records during the operations of said buildings. The three story tall project in burlington used $1 per day to maintain 70 degrees during the winter, even when freezing and outside temperature hovered around 30 degrees, the system produced "SOLAR HEAT" at no cost. NO NEGATIVE STATEMENTS IN MY POSTING! DO SOMETHING? HAVE SOMEBODY HELP YOU? GET OUT OF YOUR CHAIR AND SAVE MONEY ON YOUR HEATING COSTS.

I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!

“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”

1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-NANCY,”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASRBOARD METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room?
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.

Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.

“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!

Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)

17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)

18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct (R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98
CED Electrical remote control switch-----appox cost------$70.00

TOTAL OUTLAY TO CREATE PASSIVE SOLAR HEAT FOR ANY HOME OR BUSINESS-$174.54 AND ABOUT 3 HOURS
.
USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on July 21, 2009 at 10:45am
This article is Positive and REAL solution to heat your home forever, or your business. My process works and and you can create and install in ANY building that has a roof and attic space, Look at the pictures of 5 projects in Washington state from 1983 to 2009 and still producing heat and in the Vancouver project all of the cooling for 20 years. SO here's the "Skinny" on how to create passive solar Heating:

July 21, 2009
Your asking about a solar power for the "POOR" to go "SOLAR"?
Passive solar heating is the quickest and least expensive solution. Using 4 hours of your time or your friend’s time and knowledge of "Simple" work you can heat your home for next to nothing for the rest of your life. BUT if your have $20,000 or so to invest in the sun panels and associated controls and the $100 per hour to have it installed, install those panels.
BUT if you are typical homeowner, you don't have $20,000 bouncing around in your pocket that you can "give away" and HOPE IT ACTUALLY PAYS BACK your investment? IF you unable to spend 4 hours and $125 to create a proven method to HEAT your home for FREE, you need to set down and decide HOW YOU ARE GOING TO CREATE $20,000 TO INVEST IN YOUR ROOF PANELS AND THEN FIGURE OUT THE PAYBACK TIME FRAME. A passive solar HEATING system HAS NO PROBLEM RETURNING A PORTION OF YOUR INVESTMENT MONEY EVERY DAY AND FOREVER! Anachronism. The complete list of pieces to create you individual SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM is enclosed:

FROM ANACHRONISM:
Enclosed are instructions to install into your home attic a simple means of SOLAR PASSIVE HEATING. THIS is exactly what I used in my first project in 1984 in Burlington Washington. Information as follows:

July 21, 2009—Hey everybody the following is direct—SIMPLE- WORKS—and YOU CREATE “Free Heat” forever! I have used the same system for 25 years to heat a commercial building with the same cubic feet of VOLUME of “10”—2000 SQ. FEET HOMES! The daily cost, USING the system defined is $1 per day to maintain 70+ degrees 365 days per YEAR, in other words $365 dollars to heat 10 homes of space in one building with original cost of less then $100 in 1984.
1. Simple math. $100 investment to install my original Passive system
2. After 9125 days we saved $60 per day to totally heat project. (This building volume equals, 10 –2,000 Sq. Ft. (homes)
3. SAVED $547,500 dollars in HEATING COSTS.
4. The return on original investment is 5475%. What “Return on Investment” have you received on your $100 you placed in your savings account in 1984?

I'm constantly reading about the need to consider the "application of Solar Panels to create electricity", so the following information may be "irrelevant", BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that "IF" you have an "ATTIC" in your home "YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM" and it sure makes sense to use it to "HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS" AND THE MONEY SAVED, which "Anachronism" has proven for "25 Years" will help you save and "Purchase" your SOLAR ARRAY!

"SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING" WITHOUT FURNACE UNIT AND OR "WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM'S!"
1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you.
"DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE".
3-If you have a "Downdraft" furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is "Pulled into" your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24" to 30" to draw from the "Hottest" collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal duct work into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace "Suction pipe" and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the "return air line", use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace "return air ducting" of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your "Remote" sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36" to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic. ( Continued)
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the "Sensor" unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICIAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON'T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don't damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to "CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER". Understand that this is legal as you have now "CREATED A POSITIVE ATTIC REMOVAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR"
15-Go to the, "10", photo's on "Anachronism" page (In the Picken's Plan on the web) and notice my designed "Intake" opening are located at the topside of the "attic ceiling structure". This allows the "COMPLETE ATTIC AREA" serve as the solar collector unit.
16-"ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASEBOARD METHOD"
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don't have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most "equalized" location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room)
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR "OR" USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a "Speed Control" switch.
Understand that you could remove "all the solar heat from your attic", if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in "BURLINGTON".

"No sun/no heat? " (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3" accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and "SIMPLY" "produced FREE" 65 degree heat!
Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)
17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, "if needed" use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)
18. Use the defined "In line Suction Motor" and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the "Remote Sensor" to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this "In line Suction Motor" by hand.
"You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?"
19-Trim out the inside "exhaust opening" to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created "YOUR OWN" Passive Solar Heating System! Remember you "MUST" have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow "OUTSIDE" air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project's "Attic Air intakes" as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Part #'s from Lowe's or Home Depot—
Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor
QTY. Price
82361 8" x 60", GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8" Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8"x 25' Black Ins. Duct (R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6"x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98
USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE

FOR "TWENTY YEARS" I have actually "PASSIVELY SOLAR COOLED
AND PASSIVELY SOLAR HEATED MY PROJECT IN VANCOUVER", so I guess it's "IMPOSSIBLE" to accomplish that without using a commercial
Air-conditioning SYSTEM capable of "COOLING " "225,330 CUBIC FEET OF
VOLUME? The volume of this mini-storage project EQUALS THE CUBIC
FEET OF, "15", 2000 Square Foot homes.
Notice the "EXTREME COST INVOLVED IN THE OPERATION OF THIS SYSTEM? The original installation cost is irrelevant as the cost of FIRST YEAR operation costs are shown below for Mount Vernon and Vancouver Projects:
220,668 Cubic Feet of space Mt Vernon/ Natural Gas equaled $1.47 PER DAY.
220,668 Cubic Feet of space Vancouver/ Natural Gas equaled $1.54 PER DAY.
157,700 Cubic Feet of space Burlington / Natural Gas equaled $1.17 PER DAY.

Typical 36 x 60 house=2160 x 8=17,300 Cu. Ft or 9 to 12 homes being heated for the cost of $.0039 per day to TOTALLY HEAT YOUR HOME!
Permalink Reply by Luane Todd on July 21, 2009 at 2:31pm
I really appreciate your detailed information. Even an old lady like me can do some of this myself. I really like the notion of solar thermal for winter and summer. I've done a bit of convection current stuff but this is way better, I think! I'll add more after I have time to digest the information you so graciously provide.
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on July 21, 2009 at 7:35pm
Luane Todd: Thank you, if you have questions about process to create my passive solar in your home or business, SIMPLY ask! I have the ability to draft drawings for your application, location of air intake into your attic and how simple it actually is in the creation of a passive system. To create a "Passive Cooling system" is simply the building of an attic exhaust method to allow the heated air to "LEAVE" and by the leaving of the hot air, you now automatically have created a "cooling" cycle. The process explained above is the action of the "HOT" air leaving AT NIGHT or when the air around your attic space is cooed to a specific temperaturel. The concept of "Cool" is when the evening air-cools down; you simply open the upper most point of your gable roof surface through a Two-foot diameter vent which by natural air action allows the hot air in the attic to exhaust out of the attic space “WHICH CREATES SUCTION” and the outside air at your lowest point/attic surface “SUCKS IN COOL AIR” TO REPLACE THE HOT AIR LEAVING THROUGH THE VENT IN THE PEAK OF THE ROOF! When a temperature sensor that you have placed in your attic indicates the “COOL” is of suitable temperature, you simply close the vent at the top of your roof and turn on your suction system and "SUCK" this cooler air into your living space. BY THE EXPLAINED ACTIONS YOU NOW HAVE CONSTANT COOL AIR ENTERING YOUR SOLAR SYSTEM AND SIMPLY DECIDE HOW COOL YOU WANT YOUR RESIDENCE. In my project in Vancouver I built a simple control box with required sensors and simple 12 volt motors to operate the vents and automatically creates each operation and the thermostat in your home then determines their actions. LUANE, it works if you want it too. THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!!
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on July 21, 2009 at 7:52pm
Luane Todd: Thank you, if you have questions about process to create my passive solar in your home or business, SIMPLY ask! I have the ability to draft drawings for your application, location of air intake into your attic and how simple it actually is in the creation of a passive system. To create a "Passive Cooling system" is simply the building of an attic exhaust method to allow the heated air to "LEAVE" and by the leaving of the hot air, you now automatically have created a "cooling" cycle. The process explained above is the action of the "HOT" air leaving AT NIGHT or when the air around your attic space is cooed to a specific temperaturesl. The concept of "Cool" is when the evening air-cools down; you simply open the upper most point of your gable roof surface through a Two-foot diameter vent which by natural air action allows the hot air in the attic to exhaust out of the attic space “WHICH CREATES SUCTION” and the outside air at your lowest point/attic surface “SUCKS IN COOL AIR” TO REPLACE THE HOT AIR LEAVING THROUGH THE VENT IN THE PEAK OF THE ROOF! When a temperature sensor that you have placed in your attic indicates the “COOL” is of suitable temperature, you simply close the vent at the top of your roof and turn on your suction system and "SUCK" this cooler air into your living space. BY THE EXPLAINED ACTIONS YOU NOW HAVE CONSTANT COOL AIR ENTERING YOUR SOLAR SYSTEM AND SIMPLY DECIDE HOW COOL YOU WANT YOUR RESIDENCE. In my project in Vancouver I built a simple control box with required sensors and simple 12 volt motors to operate the vents and automatically creates each operation and the thermostat in your home then determines their actions. LUANE, it works if you want it too. THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!! Look at the pictures on my site and I can send you other photos or drawings to further clarify concepts. I designed, drafted and completely constructed and owned all the projects shown. You can create your own system and simply watch nature closer then you have in the past. NEVER be afraid and be aware that whatever you need to KNOW is simply in front of your eyes and trust the ideas that come to you. I started my first business at 1953 at 13 years old, selling slacked lime and sand to a brick mason whom then added cement into my mix to build brick exterior walls for homes. DO SOMETHING AND SHOW OTHERS HOW TO DO THE SAME!!!

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