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What are you doing to be more energy efficient?

October is Energy Awareness Month! Share your thoughts and stories on efforts you or people you know have made to improve energy efficiency.

Tags: efficiency, energy

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Permalink Reply by Gaylord Randel on October 5, 2009 at 10:19pm
I think someone needs to re evaluate the use of the compact "energy efficient" flourscent light bulbs. I have tried them and will buy no more for two reasons. First and foremost, they are made in China, and buying foreign made light bulbs is no different than buying foriegn oil. Second, out of the 8 bulbs I bought 5 have failed within 3 months of installation. The energy savings is more than offset by the manufacturing cost and replacement costs of purchasing more foreign made bulbs.
Permalink Reply by RexKI on October 5, 2009 at 10:24pm
Until you calculate your energy use per square foot you have no way to compare yourself to others - only your own savings from prior periods!

Get a Kill-a-Watt device for 20 dollars and start calculating both active energy use and standby (non active electrical use).

Likely candidates that "Are Shocking":
1. Computer UPS when not used draws up to 220 watts when you thought it was off.
2. Computers left on working on the genome project 24/7 with quad core can burn over 240 watts.
3. Ceiling fan remotes burn 25 watts each waiting for you to turn it on 24/7 - I had 3 of them! Put in permanent wall switches.
4. Garage door remotes consume 25 watts 24/7, put them on a switch in the house and turn them off at night.
5. Dish washer plugged in not running burns 15 watts -not even a clock to show for it
6. Our toaster plugged in burned 24 watts not toasting.
7. Non air-conditioning months turn off the circuit breaker to it since it burns 7 watts doing nothing.
8. Buy and install only green LED GFCI outlets instead of the red light ones, 1.5 watts versus 3 for each. I had 10 of the old style. 24/7 savings.
9. Hard wired microwaves burns 25 watts to show you another redundant clock in your kitchen when you are not heating water or cooking your hot cereal in the morning. Put it on a permanent switch as well!!

Reduced my standby electricity from 450 watts down to 125 watts - 2,893 kWh saved per year or $441 savings per year in Illinois. Future value of this savings over 20 years at 8% return which is 5 percent below your utility companies rate of return is $20,181. At 13% the future value is $35,698!

Another huge saver that does not get mentioned is Front load washers, these save 250-350 dollars per year in electricity water and soap and reduce dryer run time by close to half!

Put in a Tankless water heater - Shower when you want, as long as you want or electy to pay for, fill that jacuzzi when you want, wash that car in the cold weather. Save a ton on natural gas or God forbid electric. (Electric hot water should be against the law!) - Gain an extra 6-8 feet in the basement where the old water heater was. This is a life changer beyond energy savings!!

The rest of the stuff you can read about on most web sites, CFL, laundry loads, turn of lights, etc.

My Electric energy per foot is Total kWh is 4,755 estimated for 2009, last year used an embarrasing 12,444.

My square footage is 1,200 without basement and (24*30 basement = 720) and detached garage (17*20 = 340). Total sqft is 2,264.
Heating is natural gas forced air system 96 AFUE 70,000 BTU
AC is 2.5 ton 16 SEER

Annual electric (kWh) per square foot is 2.10 - 2009
Annual electric (kWh) per square foot in 2008 was 5.50

National average home is 2,047 feet and electric usage is 11,140, 5.44 kWh/sqft. If I can cut my usage by 62% then you can cut yours by a huge number as well!

What yours? What are you going to do?
Permalink Reply by Dee Miller on October 13, 2009 at 7:11pm
This is real stuff we all can do. I had never heard of "Kill a watt." Thanks a bunch!
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on October 13, 2009 at 10:14pm
At 1:50pm on Oct 9th, 2009, Anachronism said…

I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!

“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”

1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-NANCY,”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASRBOARD METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room?
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.

Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.

“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!

Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)

17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)

18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct(R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98

USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE
Permalink Reply by Cynthia Hoyt on October 5, 2009 at 10:31pm
I'd like to think that I am already helping the planet and reducing the amount of energy I use. My carbon footprint must be very small by now.
My A/C broke this summer and I couldn't afford to fix it so I had a virtually non-existant gas/power bill. My heater is broken so the kids and I cuddle in my bedroom, close the door, wear layers, beanie caps, and have a space heater. I will definitely need to get the heater fixed because I was told extreme cold will do nore damage but even then, I set the thermostat to a balmy 58 during the day and 64 at night.

I only wash clothes in cold water and when I can hang dry things, I do. Hanging to dry is much harder in the winter - especially when it is between 58 - 64 degrees.

I have a 2005 fuel efficient car with 35k miles on it. The kids and I ride our bicycles and scooters most places we go because gas is really not in the budget - I tell them we are doing it to save the planet and they have bought that story so far (since they are only 9 & 12)

Ideally, I would love to have solar panels that will create all the heat/power the kids and I would need. If there was some way to get the solar panels that would be awesome! I do not know how to even find out if there are any in my area, cost, parts, add ons, or whatever else I need to know about them. I would bet there are absolutely no tax breaks or cost savings to do that type of thing in my area. Ideas?
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on October 13, 2009 at 10:15pm
At 1:50pm on Oct 9th, 2009, Anachronism said…

I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!

“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”

1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-NANCY,”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASRBOARD METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room?
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.

Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.

“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!

Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)

17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)

18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct(R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98

USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE
Permalink Reply by RexKI on October 5, 2009 at 10:39pm
Unless the solar panels are donated to you they are not cost effective even in the sunniest parts of the world with current pricing of electric being so cheap.

If electricity gets to Hawaii prices of over 28 cents per kWh then PV solar panels can become cost effective. For now I would focus on energy savings like you already are and put that money to the side for a future cost effective self sustaining onsite electrical generation system of the near future.

Examples: Micro CHP, concentrating solar dishes
Permalink Reply by Brian on October 6, 2009 at 12:24am
Since I have moved into this house almost 7 years ago I have cut my electricity use by half from 26kWh/day to 13kWh/day, more than doubled the insulation in the attic and installed a new replacement oil heater to help cut my heating oil use from 750 to about 550 gal/year and drive a diesel Mercedes burning biodiesel to reduce my use of fuel from oil for driving. I am working on all kinds of other stuff.
More here.
http://home.comcast.net/~bigvid/
Brian
Permalink Reply by Raymond Fontanes on October 10, 2009 at 10:04pm
Brian,
I like your Silver Bullet. I have a 1984 300D GreaseCar burning waste veggie oil since 2006. If you have the time to process waste veggie oil, I would suggest going that route instead of the biodiesel route. Save more money, cleaner air (67% less emissions than diesel), help get off the OIL addiction and keep food prices down. Not to mention no need of becoming asphyxiated in your garage or dumping toxins into the environment. Do whatever you feel is the right thing for you at this time. It’s great how many things you have going on, though. You are a true pioneer and my hat is off to you.
Ray
Permalink Reply by Anachronism on October 13, 2009 at 10:15pm
At 1:50pm on Oct 9th, 2009, Anachronism said…

I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!

“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”

1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-NANCY,”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASRBOARD METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room?
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.

Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.

“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!

Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)

17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)

18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct(R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98

USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE
Permalink Reply by Bill Bullock on October 6, 2009 at 5:49am
I have been conducting research into alternative energy sources for over 50 years and hold one major patent on my work. I have also done extensive research into energy conservation in home construction and worked in the Heat Island research project of recent years.

In order to finance my research I have worked all my life in the petroleum industry, except for a few years in college and the Marines, starting in East Texas where I was born and raised. During this time I worked with all the majors and most of the larger independents. I owned and ran a group of small service companies over the years including one that was dedicated specifically to recovering waste crude oil from accidental spills, cleaning it up using methods I developed and returning it to the regular production stream to be refined and used. In all I recovered a total of over a half million barrels from such disasters. This was while mostrecovery/clean-up operations were treating these materials as waste streams fit only for disposal.

At present my company is starting construction of a facility in East Texas that will process oilfield wastes (E&P Wastes) such as drill cuttings and "tank bottoms" (the junk that settles out in storage tanks during production and etc.) into usable fuel.

I look forward to spending the remaining days of my life finishing this fight.

Bill Bullock
Permalink Reply by Buzz Kaas on October 6, 2009 at 6:32am
We have installed a whole house dehumidifier which replaces air conditioning for a most of the cooling season as well as spring & fall. It uses about 1/3 the energy of air conditioning and doesn't have the constant blowing intensity of a/c. We can keep the temperature in the house at 79* and still feels very comfortable. Humidity is around 60% and mold is no longer an issue for us in the south.

This was a good compliment to our Icynene foam insulation on the underside of the attic deck which we did last year. Our attic is generally within 10*F of the ambient temperature of the house.

We should consume about 7,200 kWh of electricity in 2009, or about 55% of years past. 7,200kWh/4000SF= 1.8kW/SF

Heating: 446 Therms/yr 446/4000SF=.1115 Therms/SF using radiant heat.

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