Solar Power

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Comment by Paul on July 30, 2009 at 12:33pm

11 days and no one has anything to post about Solar Power.

How about clicking this link?

Comment by Anachronism on July 19, 2009 at 10:29am

FROM ANACHRONISM: July, 19,2009
QUESTION? Do you have $20,000 to give to some company to install SOLAR PANELS on your roof? HOW long before you receive this money spent back in your hands? NEVER? Twenty years later? Get real, if you have $100 to throw at roof panels your lucky. Take your $100 and install your OWN Passive solar system and get your investment back in the next six months AND FREE HEAT FOREVER.
Enclosed are instructions to install into your home attic a simple means of SOLAR PASSIVE HEATING. THIS is exactly what I used in my first project in 1984 in Burlington Washington. Information as follows: created: November 15, 2008—Hey everybody the following is direct—SIMPLE- WORKS—and YOU CREATE “Free Heat” forever! I have used the same system for 25 years to heat a commercial building with the same cubic feet of VOLUME of “10”—2000 SQ. FEET HOMES! The daily cost, USING the system defined is $1 per day to maintain 70+ degrees 365 days per YEAR, in other words $365 dollars to heat 10 homes of space in one building with original cost of less then $100 in 1984.
1. Simple math. $100 investment to install my original Passive system
2. After 9125 days we saved $3 per day to totally heat project. (This building volume equals, 10 –2,000 Sq. Ft. (homes)
3. SAVED $27,375 dollars in HEAT COSTS.
4. The return on original investment 27,375 %. What ROI have you received on your $100 you placed in your savings account in 1984?

I'm constantly reading about the need to consider the "application of Solar Panels to create electricity", so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that "IF" you have an "ATTIC" in your home "YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM" and it sure makes sense to use it to "HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS" AND THE MONEY SAVED, which "Anachronism" has proven for "25 Years" will help you save and "Purchase" your SOLAR ARRAY!

"SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING" WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR "WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM'S!"
1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you.
"DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE".
3-If you have a "Downdraft" furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is "Pulled into" your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24" to 30" to draw from the "Hottest" collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal duct work into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace "Suction pipe" and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the "return air line", use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace "return air ducting" of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your "Remote" sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36" to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic. ( Continued)
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the "Sensor" unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON'T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don't damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to "CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER". Understand that this is legal as you have now "CREATED A POSITIVE ATTIC REMOVAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR"
15-Go to the, "10", photo's on "Anachronism" page (In the Picken's Plan on the web) and notice my designed "Intake" opening are located at the topside of the "attic ceiling structure". This allows the "COMPLETE ATTIC AREA" serve as the solar collector unit.
16-"ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASEBOARD METHOD"
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don't have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most "equalized" location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room)
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR "OR" USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a "Speed Control" switch.
Understand that you could remove "all the solar heat from your attic", if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in "BURLINGTON".

"No sun/no heat? " (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3" accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and "SIMPLY" "produced FREE" 65 degree heat!
Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)
17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, "if needed" use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)
18. Use the defined "In line Suction Motor" and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the "Remote Sensor" to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this "In line Suction Motor" by hand.
"You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?"
19-Trim out the inside "exhaust opening" to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created "YOUR OWN" Passive Solar Heating System! Remember you "MUST" have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow "OUTSIDE" air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project's "Attic Air intakes" as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Part #'s from Lowe's—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor
QTY. Price
82361 8" x 60", GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8" Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8"x 25' Black Ins. Duct (R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6"x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98
USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE

FOR "TWENTY YEARS" I have actually "PASSIVELY SOLAR COOLED
AND PASSIVELY SOLAR HEATED MY PROJECT IN VANCOUVER", so I guess it's "IMPOSSIBLE" to accomplish that without using a commercial
Air-conditioning SYSTEM capable of "COOLING " "225,330 CUBIC FEET OF
VOLUME? The volume of this mini-storage project EQUALS THE CUBIC
FEET OF, "15", 2000 Square Foot homes.
Notice the "EXTREME COST INVOLVED IN THE OPERATION OF THIS SYSTEM? The original installation cost is irrelevant as the cost of FIRSTYEAR operation costs are shown below for Mount Vernon and Vancouver Projects:
220,668 Cubic Feet of space Mt Vernon/ Natural Gas equaled $1.47 PER DAY.
220,668 Cubic Feet of space Vancouver/ Natural Gas equaled $1.54 PER DAY.
157,700 Cubic Feet of space Burlington / Natural Gas equaled $1.17 PER DAY.

Typical 36 x 60 house=2160 x 8=17,300 Cu. Ft or 9 to 12 homes being heated for the cost of $.0039 per day to TOTTALY HEAT YOUR HOME!

Comment by Don Gardner on July 2, 2009 at 3:44pm

Please go check out my new Video. its called "Custom Solar Attic Fan" it just gose to show that even I can do something.

Comment by Dean Youngkeit on June 27, 2009 at 9:44pm

Paraboloid concentrators reflecting to a focal ring will be much more versatile in harvesting solar energy. The polar filament wound structures cost much less per watt of power harvested than silicone wafers. Harvested would be heat, freezing, industrial and home energy, the making of free hydrogen and oxygen even for ocean going vessels and lawnmowers. They have been used to reclaim potable water from sewage during the last trip to the moon. They were produced by NASA JPL Pasadena. The focal ring via a sterling engine ran a linear alternator.

Comment by Jacqueline on June 22, 2009 at 10:50am

AB 560 needs to pass:
Assembly Bill 560 would increase the cap on "net metering," which gives solar customers credit on their electric bill for surplus power they transfer to the utility. Currently, a utility is not obligated to sign net-metering contracts once solar power equals 2.5 percent of its peak electricity demand, a level PG&E is approaching. AB 560 would quadruple that cap, to 10 percent.
http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_12620166?source%253Dmost_emailed.26978592730A3B8C7F471EACE0DA4EF2.html
Please spread the word and take action by calling your Representative - requesting the bill be passed. Thanks!

Comment by Jacqueline on June 22, 2009 at 10:49am

AB 560 needs to pass:
Assembly Bill 560 would increase the cap on "net metering," which gives solar customers credit on their electric bill for surplus power they transfer to the utility. Currently, a utility is not obligated to sign net-metering contracts once solar power equals 2.5 percent of its peak electricity demand, a level PG&E is approaching. AB 560 would quadruple that cap, to 10 percent.
http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_12620166?source%253Dmost_emailed.26978592730A3B8C7F471EACE0DA4EF2.html
Please spread the word and take action by calling your Representative - requesting the bill be passed. Thanks!

Comment by Jacqueline on June 22, 2009 at 10:39am

AB 560 needs to pass:
Assembly Bill 560 would increase the cap on "net metering," which gives solar customers credit on their electric bill for surplus power they transfer to the utility. Currently, a utility is not obligated to sign net-metering contracts once solar power equals 2.5 percent of its peak electricity demand, a level PG&E is approaching. AB 560 would quadruple that cap, to 10 percent.
http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_12620166?source%253Dmost_emailed.26978592730A3B8C7F471EACE0DA4EF2.html
Please spread the word and take action by calling your Representative - requesting the bill be passed. Thanks!

Comment by Twyla Baggett on May 18, 2009 at 12:26pm

Thank you everyone for your information on my upcoming solar project. I knew if I took the questions to the experts I would get expert advice. Thank you and I may be calling on some of you very soon.

Comment by Earl Allen Boek on May 14, 2009 at 11:17am

Well Paul: I'm still here and alive and kicking, thanks be to God. Have you checked out my blog lately at www.yeswecansolve.blogspot.com
That's YESWECANSOLVEIT dot blogspot dot com Getting very high
in google searches lately. Want to promote anything_Green Earl

Comment by WALTER REED on May 14, 2009 at 9:21am

Twyla Baggett

I would first suggest that you consult with an architect schooled and practiced in conservation, solar, green and wind where applicable. There are a hand full of them such as James Chuda, David Noble and few others. The energy saved from the proper design, orientation, material selections, appliances, use of cathodic wells and components would result with as much or significantly more energy than produced by the active solar system. Then, adding the solar system would likely require smaller over-all roof or acreage covered to meet your goal at a great up-front capital cost savings. Take the holistic approach to energy.

Roof top installations of solar would be the least costly as the roof is already the supporting structure for the system. Here is where building design and building layout azimuth orientation is important. The schooled architect would incorporate the solar system so as not to look like an after-thought or add-on system, but rather a blend aesthetically pleasing to the living environment of the complex.

Required capacity exceeding roof area, can be incorporated into parking shelter roof space or even a population of pole trackers in and around the complex. I would initially believe that the system would be photovoltaic for several reasons.

There are large companies such as Sharp and Shell which have software to accurately assess the annual energy of a system designed (or proposed) inclusive of solar insolation at your location - and would do it for free.

I hope that this is helpful,
Walter

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