Homeowner seeking backyard wind power
By ALLISON BOURG Staff Writer
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A Pasadena man is seeking permission to put two wind turbines on his property near Downs Memorial Park, apparently the first such request to come before the county.
Richard Hawse and his wife, Mary, are not only requesting a zoning variance next week to allow structures taller than 25 feet on his 4-acre property c…
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Posted on September 23, 2008 at 11:00pm — Comments
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Every seed takes time to germinate.
So too in the fields of the soul.
We must never give up and sow
because the results do not
immediate to our eyes.
Let us wait with patience.
In the right moment, the seeds
have driven in the soil of hearts,
there will produce mature fruit.
Understanding and sow Joy, Peace and
Courage, Forgiveness and Love.
Jesus bless you have a good nigh
April
Enclosed is the total description and methods that can create your Passive Solar Heating System. (In Vancouver Wash, my Passive Solar Heating system actually COOLS the complete building when the building interior determines it needs to be cooled.) I continued this simple solar system on the next four projects from Bellingham, WA. to Vancouver, WA. When I built the Vancouver project in 1989, just 1 mile from the Columbia River on Mill Plain Ave. I decided to create a "Solar Passive Cooling System" as the temperature in Vancouver was considerably hotter and needed "Cooling" along with the Passive System used in all the other projects.
-----INSTRUCTION TO CREATE PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING------
I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes sense to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!
I have built (5) commercial “Passive Solar Systems” starting in 1983 to 1989 in Washington State. My first system “COST” $48 in 1983 and has produced 95% of heating necessary to 70 degrees for 25 years. This building is 95’ long X 55’ wide x 28’ tall. The cubic area is the same as 14-1800 sq. foot homes. My monthly cost when 30 degrees outside cost $1.00 per day. The last project built in Vancouver, Wash in 1989 uses my combination “Passive Solar Heating and Automatic Passive Solar Cooling”. The building is 145’ long by 74’ wide and 22’ high. My winter gas bill for heating and cooling averaged $1 per day in 1989/90.
Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)
to see five projects using my Passive Solar Heating systems. (The
Site shown below has pictures of all my projects and will assist in your understanding of what I’m explaining actually EXISTS!)
http://push.pickensplan.com/photo/photo/listForContributor?screenName=36rfivc38zfq8
IT IS REAL AND WORKS. You need help? ASK.
“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURNACE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”
1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
NEXT--
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICIAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSITIVE ATTIC REMOVAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-NANCY,”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASEBOARDS METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room? (1632)
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.
Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.
“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 23 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!
17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)
18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)
Sincerely, Anachronism
Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct (R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98
USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE
At this phase of the projects building codes now required "Fire Walls" every 35' plus an 8" thick concrete separation wall to control fires spreading through the attic space and to separate the building into two separate units. With these requirements in play, I had to figure out a method using two separate 65,000 BTU furnaces to heat this 142 X 74 x 21' tall, two-floor building with 220 storage units and 1200 square foot managers apartment.. The cost of using the described gas furnace's for Natural Gas cost ----$1.50 per day---- during the four months of November, December, January and February. The balance of the year for cooling and heating were the expense of operating (2) squirrel cage fans when the building sensors indicated it needed heat or cooling. ( the cubic volume is the same as 14-2400 square foot homes) Heating these 14 homes for an expense of -$1.50 per day---
I designed this combined system, with the fire Marshal's permission and approval to create a "Super Passive Solar System" along with and automatic " Passive Cooling System". This Vancouver project used my designed system to "automatically" heat or cool the entire project with "NO" input beyond setting one thermostat to the desired "Heat" temperature in the main office.
All the projects I built never included any written or described heating system designs to be disclosed, therefore they are completely private and NO plans exist except within my mind. The beauty of the system is it costs approximately $200 in supplies plus the labor involved in the installation of the heating system. (1989 prices) The automatic air conditioning system is more expensive and cost $450 in 1989. These combined systems heats and cools a two story building of 74' wide x 142' long x 21’ high long. ( the cubic volume is the same as 14-2400 square foot homes)
These complete systems function using existing forced air heating systems and can be retrofitted to any commercial or residential in use. The one negative of this process is as follows: Once an owner understands how it functions, it will decrease their heating and cooling costs 85% forever. Are you (we can do) ready to use my knowledge?
The information above allows full disclosure as to location of these projects, pictures of interior conditions, 20 years after construction and long term viability of the concept. Thank You; "It's REAL"
Warren