Tom Zellars's Page

To Tom,
Please check out my website: www.vasarirenewableenergy.com
office: 949-476-3776 norm@vasarirenewableenergy.com
please call or email back. Thank you, Norm Powers

THE PROCESS EXPLAINED IN THE INFORMATION POSTED WITHIN THIS COMMENT SECTION IS AS “GREEN AS IT GETS”
JULY 15 2009-25 years age the following was accomplished and "fully PASSIVE" to heat and cool any home or business anywhere in the USA.
The question in a building as to both heat and cool automatically was accomplished in 1987 in Vancouver Washington. The question in building as to how to both heat and cool automatically was accomplished in 1987 in Vancouver Washington. I used the attic space for 98% of the heating needs by having vents at the top of the trusses lower cord, which allowed air to enter the attic space. The fire code required a "smoke wall" to separate the first 74' into two separate chambers with a automatic fire damper closer with a fusible link that would close the damper in case of an attic fire to create separate attic spaces.
The air came into the attic space and to go from the first chamber it was forced to rise to the lower inside roof surface which then grabbed the heat from the surface and rose up along the second chamber and was then "Sucked" into the "Intake" of the gas furnace which was located 6' above the attic floor and blown into the inter of the building. This system was duplicated on the other side of the required 8" thick firewall to heat the other 74' of this building. NOW how do you cool this same project WITHOUT a separate and costly heat pump or some other complex mechanical monster? This building contained 219,240 cubic feet of space.
The space inside this building is the same as "15 homes of 1800 sq. feet" to both heat and cool. For the last 20 years it has only cost $2.00 per day for natural gas to heat this project. The cost to operate the furnace squirrel cage fan is the amount it takes to operate a 1/3 HP fan system. How can you TOTALLY COOL this structure to 68 degrees using the ATTIC SOLAR COLLECTION space and with "NO" intervention or work by the owner or the managers AND no system to produce the "COOLING" required to maintain the specific differential in temperatures? I built a separate control system, which determines the outside air space; the air outside the building shell must be 65 degrees at a position 26 feet above the ground.
This building is 28’ tall at the peak of the 8” thick firewall separating the building into two elements. ALL the cooling air is free for “SUCKING” from outside by the use of 4’ round opening in the roof 4’ form the fire separation wall. Hot air rises, or does it "DROP"? I simply opened the roof vents and the “HOT” air rushes out and it creates an automatic “Suction” at the lower vents at the ceiling line where air is allowed to enter the attic space.
The hot air rising cause a “Suction” in the attic space to completely fill with “Nice cool night air” and when the sensors decide the “NEW” attic air is now suitable for the cooling needs, the roof vents automatically close and the “Suction” fans located inside the interior furnace units turn on and simply suck in this “FREE” cooled air.
There is no cost to cool the building beyond the cost of running two 1/8-hp. Squirrel cage fans. When the interior space has reached the required temperature, either cool or heated, everything simply shuts down, the roof vents close and waits for instructions with no human intervention.
The system is completely automatic and the required interior temperature on the lower floor sets the conditions for the complete building. In other words when the temperature is set to 68 or 70 for the inside of the building, the system automatically adds heat if needed or waits for conditions to occur for cooling the inside.
I guess the above is impossible? The system described will WORK in any building or HOME with a typical truss roof system. Sincerely arclockventuri@gmail.com
Hi TOM: Consider this idea to create solar heat in your residence. I have applied this for 25 years and it painless to keep my money in my pocket heating my business for NOTHING for 25 years.
I’m constantly reading about the need to consider the “application of Solar Panels to create electricity”, so the following information maybe irrelevant, BUT it makes since to consider the actual fact that “IF” you have an “ATTIC” in your home “YOU OWN A PERSONAL SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM” and it sure makes sense to use it to “HEAT YOUR LIVING QUARTERS” AND THE MONEY SAVED, which “Anachronism” has proven for “25 Years” will help you save and “Purchase” your new SOLAR ARRAY!

“SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASEBOARD ELECTRIC HEATING”
WITHOUT FURANCE UNIT AND OR “WITH FORCED AIR SYSTEM’S!”

1-When and before you enter your attic space, make sure you have proper light to observe all elements of your attic and the area where you will work.
2-You must use safe working planks to safely span the work area (Your attic is probably the structure that contains the insulation, wiring, heat ducts and other elements of the ceiling structure) so that you “DO NOT DAMAGE ANY OF YOUR FINISHED INTERIOR STRUCTURE”.
3-If you have a “Downdraft” furnace system with the return air piping going to your current heating system, you want to enter this duct air return as close to the furnace as possible.
4-The closer to the main suction point, more Passive Heat is “Pulled into” your house.
5-Start your upper suction position of the intake pipe at least 24” to 30” to draw from the “Hottest” collection point in the typical pitched roof area inside.
6-If needed, insert a short piece of metal ductwork into the new suction pipe to keep the flexible unit from sucking in and blocking the entering position in your attic.
7-Carefully attach to furnace “Suction pipe” and keep it straight and proceed to the position where you enter the “return air line”, use suitable adaptor when attaching into the furnace “return air ducting” of your existing furnace system.
8-Pick a location for your “Remote” sensor control inside your home and connect the wiring to the sensor inside your attic located at a distance of 36” to the side of your new intake pipe and level with the pipe opening located in the attic.
9-Follow instruction with the sensor and connect your wiring from the attic remote sensor to the “Sensor” unit.
10-Attach low voltage (dual wire) from the sensor to the connection block of furnace in the same positions your house or current interior thermostat is currently connected.
11-CONSULATE LOCAL ELECTRICAN IF NEEDED TO HOOK UP THESE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES IF NECESSARY OR ANY WIRING!
12- Make sure to support the new pipe with suitable material and DON’T crush ANY of your air pipes.
13-Make sure the connection into your current intake pipe is airtight and don’t damage either piping.
14-NOW you need to close any current ATTIC venting openings in the gable ends to “CREATE YOUR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATER”. Understand that this is legal as you have now “CREATED A POSTIVE ATTIC REMOVEAL SYSTEM OF HEATED AIR”
15-Go to the, “10”, photo’s on Anachronism page and notice my designed “Intake” opening are located at the topside of the “attic ceiling structure”. This allows the “COMPLETE ATTIC AREA” serve as the solar collector unit.
16-”ATTENTION, ELECTRICAL BASRBOARD METHOD”
Follow steps# 1,2,5,6,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,
(IF you don’t have a forced air furnace and currently use electric baseboard heaters you need to pick a location in your ceiling of the room that allows the most “equalized” location to bring your attic heat into your home or a specific room?
If needed, add a SECOND PIPE AND ANOTHER SUCTION MOTOR “OR” USE A CIRCULATION FAN FROM THE ROOM (to spread the heat) WHERE YOUR PASSIVE SYSTEM DELIVERS YOUR ATTIC HEAT INTO YOUR LIVING SPACE. (YOU WANT "VOLUME" OF AIR INTO YOUR HOME SO DO NOT USE SMALLER INTAKE PIPE.) OPTION--Control volume flow with a “Speed Control” switch.

Understand that you could remove “all the solar heat from your attic”, if temperature are cooler and no sun on your roof. "SUN CREATES YOUR HEAT", subject to the conditions that occurred in “BURLINGTON”.

“No sun/no heat????” (Read what actually occurred in Burlington on 12/23/1984 on the occasion of first operation, it was snowing with a 3” accumulation of SNOW on roof, cloudy and 22 deg. outside and “SIMPLY” “produced FREE” 65 degree heat!

Look up on Internet (http://push.pickensplan.com/profile/Anachronism)

17-Your pick of a location that equalizes the distribution within the room and, “if needed” use a metal or plastic pipe with holes around the pipe to cause the air to disperse and direct downward to the floor area. You figure out this problem to fit your house. (You can simply direct airflow to floor, you decide)

18. Use the defined “Inline Suction Motor” and consult your local electrician to make the electrical connections to this motor and use a suitable electrical switch to the “Remote Sensor” to make automatic or simply use a wall switch to operate this “Inline Suction Motor” by hand.
“You decide whether you want automatic or manual control of the passive Solar Heating system?”
19-Trim out the inside “exhaust opening” to a neat and clean appearance to finish the job.
20-You have created “YOUR OWN” Passive Solar Heating System!
Remember you “MUST” have outside air movement into the attic space from either the eaves or at the bottom of the gable ends or the vents under the eaves to allow “OUTSIDE” air to enter the attic space to allow your system to function. (NOTICE the specific location on each of my project’s “Attic Air intakes” as I designed, built and controlled every aspect to create workable Passive solar projects.)

Sincerely, Anachronism

Part #’s from Lowe’s—Dated as 08/19/08 (Parts & Pricing)
ITEM DESCRIPTION Vendor QTY. Price
82361 8” x 60”, GALV Pipe 1-08050 1 9.94
185010 8” Duct Fan (Sun court) DB208 1 29.93
36441 8”x 25’ Black Ins Duct (R4.2) BPC825 1 38.69
77405 6”x 25 Black Ins Duct (R-6) BPC625R6 1 25.98

USE THE SIZE PIPE OR MOTOR YOU WANT TO USE

Tom, I left a comment on your blog post, but forgot to tell you about my latest air car development which will save 95% of the energy and resources needed to convert our current fleet to hybrids. Get back to me, if you are interested.

Hi Tom , Here is a tool for all of us to get RE projects started by selling of US Treasury "Energy Independence Savings Bonds". Savings bonds are normally purchased in $25 increments. This gives a way for just about any American to tighten their belts just a bit by skipping a meal at McDonalds or Pizza Hut and buying a RE savings bond to support a renewable energy project and save money at the same time for themselves. I need help pushing this project, I've faxed and emailed many in Congress/Senate already.If you agree with this plan please consider passing to other people in your district as it will be a great tool to get funding for PickensPlan projects. This is a way to help and give tools to all of us for getting more RE projects started. My email is ke6cvh@yahoo.com. Here is a copy of a fax sent to Nancy Pelosi the other day:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
27FEB09
Honorable Speaker of the House Congresswoman Pelosi,

I am an Electronic Technician Chief in the US Navy with 27 years service stationed overseas. I’m outlying an idea to assist and work with current plans for achieving energy independence. I urge you, as speaker of the house and the driving force to form the select committee on energy independence and global warming, consider for discussion and introduction into the house US Treasury Savings Bonds for Energy Independance.
In WWII America sold war bonds supporting the war effort. When young, my mother told me her primary school raised enough money through bonds to build a tank to support troops. I am impressed with the patriotism and purpose of our greatest generation that accomplished so much.

Selling energy bonds for RE (Renewable Energy) development would lower foreign oil imports and assist with the complex problem of funding. Bonds sold as “Energy S” could support new solar trough plants, “Energy W” to support wind farms, Energy “H” to support hydroelectric plants, Energy “T” to support RE transportation such as electric bullet train routes powered by RE, Energy "C" COOPS for small communities only needing a small quantity of turbines, and Energy “I” for needed infrastructure high voltage power lines to the RE site. Bonds will have the project name and include an artist’s perspective of the project and an American flag. President Obama had great success with the internet during his campaign. In a similar manner, using the internet, energy bonds could have a website listing current projects and an “electronic checkout” could purchase a bond $25 or higher. Simpler methods of payment such as “PAYPAL” and credit cards would be available and after an electronic purchase is complete a color print out of the bond is available with a follow up of the bond in the mail. The website would limit quantity of projects for each category until funding is complete. After a project becomes funded, a new project will be available. A tab on the site will show history and status of previous projects. Purchasers may take great pride in “collecting” and displaying bonds of various RE projects and participating at different levels of financial support. Solar trough plants in the multi-hundred MW size capacity with molten salt energy storage in California, Arizona, and West Texas can provide a major portion of electric needs. North Dakota has potential to support 1/3 of our nations electric needs in it’s class 4 wind zone areas. There are plenty of suitable proposed wind turbine farms now around the nation to significantly increase our RE if funded. Mid sized hydro-electric has not been used in America to it’s full potential. Following the example of our neighbor, Canada, it would provide a significant increase in percentage of electric production. Developing all three we could provide the majority of our electric and heating needs through renewable energy in a "New New Deal" fashion allowing natural gas for transportation as T. Boone Pickens is working for. Bullet train routes have proven a viable alternative to commercial domestic air service and when powered by electricity provided by RE suppliers America would be in the forefront of world technology. Example, I heard of discussion for a commuter train from Denver to Colorado Springs. Such a route built as a renewable energy project with charter requirement legally requiring to only purchase electricity from available renewable energy sources would be a model example. There are many train routes, city bus systems, and government vehicles that can be converted to run from alternative energy sources and fuels. Jobs created would bolster the economy, lower trade deficit, and strengthen national security. I would take great pride in print outs of bonds with graphics of each project I supported and many other Americans would also. The energy bonds could have tax breaks. BLM lands may be a viable place to start for some projects.

I contacted the US treasury department and was told that the marketing department for savings bonds closed several years ago. I was told there would be problems because savings bonds are at the federal level while the projects will be at the state and local level. I disagree and believe that these can easily be figured out in the way of grants to the state and local level using money from the bonds for those specific projects. I was told to check out auctions on the www.treasurydirect.gov website and found them to not apply to citizens wanting to buy savings bonds to support a cause such as energy independance. I was told by the treasury department to look into CREB (Clean Renewable Energy Bonds). I found CREB to be large scale funding that a citizen would not be able to participate in as a US Treasury Energy Independance Bond would provide. If given the tools to participate directly, the power of the citizens of the United States to help achieve energy independance could not be denied. Americans mean well and the Energy Independance Savings bond program will give citizens the power at their level to make it happen. If marketed through a web page, commercials, and to federal employees the word would get out and participation would spread like wildfire.

Mr. Paul Gipe, a resident of Bakersfield CA, an author of several books about wind energy, and recipient of multiple awards as a pioneer in the industry since the 1970's has put a letter I wrote to Senator Dorgan on this subject as well as an older letter I wrote on wind COOP in JAN07. These websites are:

http://www.wind-works.org/coopwind/RenewableEnergyBondsforEnergyIndependence.html
and
http://www.wind-works.org/articles/AmericanEnergyIndependencethroughCooperativeInvestmentinWindEnergy.html

Sincerely and very respectfully,

ETC(SW/AW) Mike Kendall USN
Mailing address: PSC 476, Box 879, FPO AP, 96322 USA
Telephone (803) 265-4756, Email: ke6cvh@yahoo.com

Tom, sending you a friendship request as a District Leader here. Please join us at the District 13 group site. Would love to have your assistance!

Hi Tom!

The clock is ticking. Both Thomas Freidman and The Gang of 20 have told us (see DAILY PICKENS) the only way to change America's energy policy is to build this historical, grass roots effort to un-ignorable heights. There are less than 75 days until Inauguration Day. We must concentrate on the job at hand. CAN YOU GET 10 signed pledges faxed in asap? Many hands make light work.

PLEASE,
Kim

Hi Tom

The only way to insure the success of this historical effort is to build our numbers to monumental and unignorable heights. CAN YOU HELP?

Would you please congratulate our newest 100CLUB member, Chris Jones-

http://www.push.pickensplan.com/profile/ChrisJones86

Chris joined Pickens Plan over the weekend, and already has 150 signed pledges from standing in line at the polls for early voting! He is going back again today. Another Pickens Hero.

Best
Kim

Tom
Is it called spamming when you invite all your friends to join Global Development Group? I hope not.